Which other nationalities have the linguistic limbleness to not only achieve in two words what English would take a paragraph to describe, but to crack it in a way that simply isn't possible in Her Majesty's idiom?
Exhibit A: "eierlegende vollmilchsäue"
Literally translated "An egg laying, milk producing, woolly pig."
Common meaning "A jack of all trades. Someone who can literally do anything."
Now not only is this one of my favourite German idioms, but it also allows me a bit of poetic license to lead on to my second favourite thing to come out of Middle Europe. Tenuous I know, but what's not to love about the idea of a mythical beast that could provide you with a full monty breakfast?
The same is true of an Austrian breakfast. There is a well balanced symmetry to dawn dining in the country that brought us sachertorte, schnitzel and other culinary delights you just don't find outside of Europe.
Added to that, there is simplicity - no fannying about with fancy sauces and griddle pans, which I love. It's no secret that I am a sucker for rich, elaborate breakfasts, but there are some days when the basics, done perfectly, are just what you feel like.
A recent blog entry written in Innsbruck, Austria, waxed lyrical about the growing creativity to be found breakfasting in Austria's larger cities. I experienced a real pang writing that because I genuinely miss the efficiency of a breakfast that tastes great, but doesn't exhaust you with too many choices. Plus did I mention the coffee? And that you can eat cake, yes people, CAKE for breakfast...
Finally, in my usual rambling way, I get to the point: with a little bit of help from an Austrian friend, it turns out that a true Austrian breakfast, served in a way only the Viennese understand, is very much alive, well and brewing in London.
Enter Kipferl. Austrian born and bred twin eateries, one in Nottinghill/Kensigton and the other in Islington. If you know London at all, you are probably familiar with Goldborne Road. If not, it is the lesser known cousin of Portabello road, a cheeky cornucopia of antique funk.
Now I have been there more times than I have fingers, but somehow have managed to miss Kipferl until today. I think it's because its slightly innocuous black facade is easily overpowered by the colourful pavement melee that starts to wake up at 12 on a Sunday. When you get there at 10am, however, most shutters are still down and the traders haven't begun to take over the pavements.
What heaven! Unlike its famous neighbour Pizza East, Kipferl isn't heaving at that time of day. You have plenty of peace and quiet to catch up and enjoy the fact that the staff are actually Austrian. Thankfully though they are a London friendly version of traditional Viennese service. If you've been to Vienna you'll know what I mean - not for the faint hearted!
The breakfast menu is small and authentically Austrian. We chose the Viennese Breakfast, topped up with an additional Eier Zwei. Quintessentially what Austrians do well: bread, ham, cheese and egg. But that doesn't do it justice at all. We aren't talking just any bread, we are talking semmel: crunchy, golden rolls with gloriously soft, yummy centres. And rye that is dark and deliciously exotic. Hell, even the ham tastes like it has been smoking gently in a barn in the mountains somewhere.
It's not cheap, but then nowhere in London really is anymore and Kipferl gets away with it because they use excellent, fresh ingredients, they know how to serve the perfect soft boiled egg and their coffee is beyond tasty, served with Viennese flair. Translated that means on a silver tray accompanied by elegant glasses of water and melt in the mouth chocolates.
I would definitely recommend a visit to Kipferl West's Islington sister too as they appear to have a slightly bigger menu with a few dishes that have piqued my curiosity. With the Austrian skill with all things bread, how could their version of French toast be anything other than lush?
Kipferl
95 Golborne Road,
London
W10 5NL
Website and Menu
How to Get There
No comments:
Post a Comment